Journal Archive

Climbing for All Sheffield

08 December, 2016

The charity, Climbing for All Sheffield, was established this summer to provide the opportunity for people with disabilities to try climbing. Based at The Foundry indoor climbing wall, the activity has the benefits of improving strength, coordination and self-esteem.

DMM awarded Gold for Investors in People

28 October, 2016

DMM is proud to have attained the Investors in People (IIP) gold standard, joining the top seven percent of accredited organisations across the UK.

Stellar new Ogwen highball 8A/+

24 September, 2016

James McHaffie has climbed a striking highball arete, that is up there with the best of north Wales’ boulder problems. The Devil’s Blade (8A/+), is situated in a fine mountain setting, on an isolated block at the back of Cwm Idwal.

South Africa trad climbing renaissance

09 August, 2016

Earlier this year Pete Robins visited South Africa as part of the BMC/Mountain Club of South Africa trad climbing exchange. Having spent the last five years mainly sport climbing and bouldering it was a trad renaissance for Pete. In this long-read he shares his experience of the exchange and perspective on UK and South African trad climbing.

Andy Winterleitner climbs 9a

04 August, 2016

After repeated visits over three seasons to Gimmelwald in Switzerland, Andy Winterleitner climbs his first 9a with a redpoint of Jungfrau Marathon.

Californian granite on my mind

02 August, 2016

Anna Wells decided that California and Yosemite's granite big walls would be the perfect way to spend a month between the end of university and graduation. However, she'd never been big walling before.

Request for user inspection: DMM harnesses

08 July, 2016

Following the discovery of missing structural sewing on a DMM harness we are issuing this Request for User Inspection.

São Tomé big wall climb

15 June, 2016

Gareth 'Gaz' Leah and Mexican big wall veteran, Sergio 'Tiny' Almada, have established a 15 pitch route, Nubivagant 5.13d/A0 (F8b), up the striking Pico Cão Grande on the African island of São Tomé and Príncipe.

First British ascent of the Infinite Spur

14 June, 2016

Ben Silvestre, Pete Graham and Will Harris make the first British ascent of the committing Infinite Spur on the South Face of  Sultana (Mount Foraker) in Alaska. This aesthetic line rises as an arete for around 2700 metres from the bergschrund to the South Summit (5124 m) of Sultana.

Next level from Megos in Parisella's Cave

12 June, 2016

Over two afternoons in north Wales, Alex Megos left local Parisella Cave dwellers standing in awe as he climbed five 8B's, and a new 8B+ link-up with Louis Armstrong into Halfway House.

The Great Escape (E8) onsight

23 May, 2016

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill's first route on the Isle of Arran is one they'll be sure to remember, with an onsight of The Great Escape (E8 6b, 6c, 6b) on The Bastion, just below the summit of Cioch na h-Oighe.

McHaffie new route spree continues

16 May, 2016

James McHaffie has made the first ascent of the well-eyed line up the slabby face between the top pitch of Direct Route and Crosstie, on The Nose of Dinas Mot, to give what is likely to be the hardest pitch of climbing in the Llanberis Pass.

British alpinists with sights on Alaska

04 May, 2016

British alpinists, Ben Silvestre, Will Harris and Peter Graham have embarked on a six week trip to the Central Alaska Range with new route objectives and an attempt on Mount Foraker's Infinite Spur in mind.

McHaffie adds E9 to Llanberis Pass

25 April, 2016

McHaffie continues his new route spree in north Wales with House of Talons (E9 6c) on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. Aside from the big grade the protection is also notable in that 12 skyhooks were used to protect the insecure climbing.

Pritchard 'knocks-off' the Totem Pole

10 April, 2016

Eighteen years after the accident that left Paul Pritchard partially paralysed he returned to climb the Totem Pole and close a chapter on his life.

Dhaulagiri medical research xxpedition

29 March, 2016

A British services expedition will conduct pioneering medical research into the effects of altitude on the human body as they attempt to climb the world's 7th highest peak, Dhaulagiri (8167 m).

New Pass and Tremadog E7's by McHaffie

25 March, 2016

James 'Caff' McHaffie clearly has new routes on his mind at the moment. Following on from his recent first ascent of The Gravity Wave (E8 6c) at Trearddur Bay, he has established two more hard trad routes.

Evolution of the Dragon Cam

02 March, 2016

The Dragon Cam now has increased holding power thanks to TripleGrip lobes and greater contact area. All based on the original concept of the dual axle, single stem design with 13.75° cam angle and extendable sling.

New Anglesey E8 for McHaffie

15 February, 2016

James McHaffie climbs a striking new line, The Gravity Wave (E8 6c), at Trearddur Bay, Anglesey. A counter diagonal to Chicama on the 'Face of Adversity'.

Adirondack ice

22 January, 2016

Nick Bullock is on a DMM tour of north-east USA ice-festivals. Starting in Adirondack he picked his way up Ice Storm (NEI 5+ M6) on his second day out.

Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia

10 December, 2015

Tying-in with the 50th anniversary of the much-loved book, Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia, together with a recently published new edition, John Cleare will be giving a presentation at LLAMFF 2016.

Schweikart & Igel free El Capitan

18 November, 2015

Over twelve days Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel fulfilled a dream with their free ascent of the 35-pitch El Corazón (5.13b) on El Capitan in Yosemite.

Carabiners join the Internet of Things

10 November, 2015

DMM recently demonstrated RFID (radio frequency identification) technology integrated into metal products as small as carabiners, with one of the benefits being enhanced traceability.

Betrayer of Hope (5.12a/E5), Newfoundland

06 November, 2015

Sam Bendroth and Bayard Russell returned to the remote 1,300-foot Blow Me Down sea cliff in Newfoundland to complete a 12-pitch new route; Betrayer of Hope (5.12a).

Storpillaren (N7/E5 6a, 600 m), Lofoten

11 October, 2015

A highlight of Andrew Cherry and Stefan Morris' Scandinavian road-trip was an ascent of the 600 metre Storpillaren (N7/E5 6a, 600 m) on Vågakallen's north face, Lofoten Islands, Norway.

Update: Recall Returns

24 September, 2015

Further to our carabiner recall notice and returns procedure, here is some information that reflects our knowledge of the current situation.

Recall Returns Procedure

18 September, 2015

Further to our September 14th 2015 Product Recall Notice please find additional information on how customers can return any potentially faulty carabiners in their possession to DMM.

Legoland: Valle Dell'Orco

17 September, 2015

Chris Igel versus the Legoland splitter roof crack in Valle Dell'Orco. A route dubbed the little sister of Yosemite's famous Separate Reality.

DMM Product Recall

14 September, 2015

DMM are issuing a product recall, subject to user inspection.

DMM Product Safety Warning

11 September, 2015

DMM Product Recall 14/09/2015 – We are issuing a recall, subject to user inspection on certain locking carabiners

Two 8b+'s for 12 year-old Jonathan Hörst

21 August, 2015

Fired up from a family trip to the Frankenjura in June, it wasn't long after getting home before the 12 year-old American climber, Jonathan Hörst, sent his third 8b+/5.14a.

Point Blank (E8 6c) hit for Lucy Creamer

31 July, 2015

Lucy Creamer fights her way up Point Blank (E8 6c). It’d been five years since she’d last visited Pembroke and done very little trad climbing since then. Read her account.

Pivot wins OutDoor Industry Award

15 July, 2015

DMM's state-of-the-art belay device, the Pivot, wins an Industry Award at OutDoor Friedrichshafen. It was judged to be outstanding in its degree of innovation, functionality, design and workmanship.

DMM at OutDoor 2015 in Friedrichshafen

15 July, 2015

DMM is showcasing its latest range of products at the OutDoor 2015 trade show. The eye-catching next generation Dragon Cams are on show for the first time, along with the Vault for racking ice-screws and tools, plus the new rope range.

Woodburn closes his account with Impact Day

01 July, 2015

Charlie Woodburn has been making the most of his move from Bristol to the Lake District. At the weekend he headpointed Birkett's Impact Day, nowadays considered E8 6c, on Pavey Ark.

More Mournes hard trad action

27 June, 2015

James McHaffie's week in the Mournes has finished on a high with a no-falls ground-up second ascent of Ricky Bell's The Peace Line (E8 6c) at the Buzzard's Roost. Plus Ricky has updated us with details of his new E8 at the crag from a few days earlier.

Alex Megos on living the dream

24 June, 2015

Even by Alex Megos' standards he has had an amazing 2015 and we're only half-way through it. Kicking off in late January with Lucid Dreaming (V15/8C), he continued to make the headlines as he visited Japan and Australia. Now back home in the Frankenjura, and having had time to catch his breath, we asked Alex a few questions.

Divided Years (E8 7a) ground-up

23 June, 2015

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have repeated Divided Years (E8 7a) ground-up. Established by John Dunne in 1995 the route is one of the UK's most striking and famous hard trad routes.

Alaska Success for Turner and Blakemore

01 June, 2015

Mike ‘Twid’ Turner and Tim Blakemore have reported climbing a significant new line on North Triple Peak (2560 m) in the Kichatna Range, Alaska. The 800 metre No Country for Old Men (ED AI6) was climbed in a 24-hour push up and down the mountain.

Felix Neumärker repeats two 9a's in three days

26 May, 2015

Felix Neumärker repeats To tu ještě nebylo (9a) in the Czech Republic followed two days later by the legendary Frankenjura route, Action Direct (9a).

North Wales climbing

28 April, 2015

In spring 2013, a group of climbers from Austria, Switzerland and Germany, visited DMM to experience north Wales' trad climbing ethic and enjoy the wide variety of crags. Here are their thoughts on the trip.

Dawes' Coeur de Lion repeated 28 years later

10 April, 2015

James McHaffie and Pete Robins, have made the second ascent of the remarkable Coeur de Lion E8 7a on the Quarryman Wall, 28 years after it was established by Johnny Dawes.

My Halo (E7 6b) headpoint by 13 year-old

08 April, 2015

Archie Ball, who turned thirteen in January has headpointed the bold Dinorwig Quarry route, My Halo (E7 6b). A route that sees very few onsights, Archie happily acknowledges that headpointed with the gear pre-placed makes it more akin to E5/6 climbing.

Early season success for McHaffie on Megalopa

31 March, 2015

Having made the third ascent of Megalopa (8c+), at Lower Pen Trwyn, James McHaffie can cross off one of his goals for 2015. Megalopa breaks out right of The Walking Mussel (8b+). The new North Wales Limestone guidebook describes the 2011 route as turning: "…an already brilliant tussle into another stratosphere of quality and difficulty."

Guntram Jörg's UK visit

17 March, 2015

Guntram Jörg was recently over in the UK for a few days . He made the most of his first visit competing at CWIF, climbing on the grit and in north Wales.

The Charlatan (IX 9) repeated

25 January, 2015

Pete Harrison and Si Frost's new Clogwyn Du route The Charlatan (IX 9), didn't have to wait long for a second ascent. Dave Garry was given a day off work at DMM - advantage of working for a climbing company that understands you have to grab Welsh winter conditions when you can - and headed up to the crag with Dave Almond early on Friday morning.

Our special agent in Switzerland

09 January, 2015

Albert Wenk has seen huge changes in the outdoor trade during his 40 years of working in the business. While at Mammut he introduced the forerunner of 'soft shell' fabric to climbing and Duodess ropes. Since leaving there in 2009 he has worked as DMM's Swiss agent.

Helping Mexico's youth climb beyond drug cartels and gangs

30 December, 2014

As ambassadors for Escalando Fronteras, Tiffany Hensley and Gareth Leah, packed their van nicknamed Wall-E and headed south to Mexico to help with the initiative and develop climbing in Monterrey.

8A for Jemma Powell

29 December, 2014

Jemma Powell rounded off her Christmas nicely with an ascent of the Llanberis Pass 8A problem, Stoned Temple Pilots. This puts Jemma firmly in a select group of women who have climbed Font 8A or above in the UK.

Susten and Grimsel Pass Bouldering

20 November, 2014

Video by Petra and Heiko Queitsch of bouldering in the high-alpine setting around the Susten and Grimsel Pass in central Switzerland.

Mixing it up on the Aiguille du Midi

04 November, 2014

Dave Garry and Dave Almond have recently climbed what they believe to be two new mixed lines on the south-east face of the Aiguille du Midi above the Cunningham Couloir. Although short, they are similar in character to the routes across the couloir on the north-west face.

Grand Pilier d'Angle

30 October, 2014

Lovely video by Keith Ball featuring his ascent of the Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243 m), on the south side of Mont Blanc, with Nick Bullock and Tim Neill this summer.

Lucy Creamer's road to recovery

20 October, 2014

For the past few years Lucy Creamer has been struggling to climb because of a shoulder injury that in the end needed surgery. But it looks like those days are finally behind her with a recent 8a onsight in Kalymnos.

Cutting Edge CNC Technology

13 October, 2014

DMM has taken delivery of a new Mazak Nexus 4000-III CNC machine that will dramatically increase its capacity for the precision machining of forged components.

Twyford picks-off Strawberries

03 October, 2014

Emma Twyford has continued her run of good form with an ascent of Strawberries (E7 6b) at Tremadog's Craig Bwlch y Moch but it wasn't without a battle.

PsychoGramm

02 October, 2014

In May this year, Alex Luger added the bold and technical Psychogramm (8b+) to the Bürser Platte (Vorarlberg); in a similar trad style to its famous right-hand neighbour, Prinzip Hoffnung (8b/+, E9/10) - Alex repeated that route at the end of 2009. A video of the lead-up to the route and Alex's first ascent is now online.

Exceedingly strong youths

29 September, 2014

Four of the 2014 BMC Youth Climbing Series (YCS) Final winners at Ratho enjoyed a day in north Wales with climbing coach and top climber, James McHaffie.

Southern Greenland adventures

25 September, 2014

Olly Sanders and Liam Fleming have recently returned from a successful expedition and fantastic adventure, combining kayaking around the southernmost tip of Greenland with climbing two new alpine style rock routes.

Skye Wall E8 repeated

24 September, 2014

Previously thwarted by the weather, Charlie Woodburn's perseverance in trying to repeat Dave Birkett's impressive Skye Wall (E8 6b), finally paid off, coming away with the second ascent.

Marker's Kingpin Tech Ski Binding

15 September, 2014

Skiing may seem a long way removed from climbing equipment but the same technical skills in working with metal are necessary for bespoke products such as the DMM manufactured components used in these new Marker Kingpin tech ski bindings.

DMM and Papertrail partnership

04 September, 2014

DMM are partnering with safety management software specialists, Papertrail, to easily record inspections of climbing and fall protection equipment.

E6 headpoint for 12 year-old Archie Ball

01 September, 2014

Twelve year-old Archie Ball headpoints the Burbage South E6 6b, Life Assurance: an ambition of Archie's ever since watching an online video of 13 year-old Jim Pope's 2012 headpoint ascent. But it had its dramatic moments.

New kids on the rock

28 August, 2014

As part of their prize from DMM, three of the BMC Youth Climbing Series (YCS) 2014 Grand Final winners at EICA Ratho, got to enjoy a day at Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) with climbing coach and top climber, James McHaffie.

First female British 8c ascent for Twyford

11 August, 2014

Emma Twyford becomes the first female to climb a British 8c with her ascent of Unjustified at Malham. It was a battle that began in 2011 with a two year break before her eventual success.

Robins earns The Pink Star (8c+)

10 August, 2014

Pete Robins has opened his 'Diamond account' for this season in fine style; with the first ascent of The Pink Star (8c+). The route climbs probably the most obvious feature at the crag: a rising left-to-right crack through the arching steepness at the right hand-side of the cliff.

Woodburn enjoys Irish trad action

04 August, 2014

Charlie Woodburnis back from a fruitful couple of weeks enjoying some Irish trad climbing at Fairhead and the mini-Pembroke that is Ailladie (Burren), coming away with several classic E6's onsight, an E7 ground-up and a quick headpoint ascent of the Dark Side (E8 6c).

Ropes of Maui: new 8B in the Pass

15 July, 2014

Pete Robins has added a new Font 8B to the Llanberis Pass, only the second at that grade in the valley, by climbing the obvious start from a sit-down at the foot of the hanging rib leading into Stoned Temple Pilots (8A) and finishing as for that problem.

New products at OutDoor Friedrichshafen 2014

10 July, 2014

DMM proudly showcases its latest products for 2014/15 at the OutDoor Friedrichshafen trade show. These new additions include three belay devices, a lightweight harness range, the Chimera biner and the eagerly awaited towable rope adjustment device, the Catch.

McHaffie solos 100 Lakeland extremes in a day

24 June, 2014

In an extraordinary effort, James McHaffie, has soloed 100 Lakeland extreme routes, up to E4, in a day. Starting with Central Buttress (E1) by headtorch at 3.40 a.m. he finished his hundredth route less than 20 hours later at Castle Rock.

Megos frees the multi-pitch Fly (8c)

20 June, 2014

Alex Megos' free ascent of the twenty-pitch Fly in the Lauterbrunnen valley, Switzerland, makes it one of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world.

Strandcafé (XIb/c) redpoint for Neumärker

27 May, 2014

Top German sport climber, Felix Neumärker, recently completed a long-standing project with the first redpoint ascent of Strandcafé (XIb/c), in his home area of Elbsandstein.

Box of Blood E7 6b

22 May, 2014

Nick Bullock made the most of this week's promised one day of good weather by getting even with Leigh McGinley's Box of Blood (E7 6b) at Craig Dorys on the Lleyn Peninsula.

Psychogramm (8b+) on trad gear

15 May, 2014

Alex Luger has added his own bold and highly technical trad route to the Bürser Platte, Psychogramm (8b+), having previously made the second ascent of Prinzip Hofnung (8b/+) just over four years ago.

Gimme Kraft & Alex Megos in the UK

08 May, 2014

Gimme Kraft is a climbing training book that'll fire up the psych of even the most jaded wall rat. Its focus is "a well-balanced and long term performance gain" through a creative set of exercises. Alex Megos is one of the world-class climbers coached by the book's authors, Patrick Matros and Ludwig 'Dicki' Korb. Watch Alex putting his training to good use in the video of Alex's recent visit to the UK, taking part at CWIF and climbing at Malham and Raven Tor.

Esoteric 7c slate groove

07 May, 2014

Esoteric but accessible might be the best way to describe the location of a new 7c slate groove climbed by Pete Robins...

Six pitch slate route

26 April, 2014

When The Rock Bottom Line in Dinorwig Quarry was climbed it was tagged as Britain's longest sport route. But Ian Lloyd-Jones and his eleven year-old son's new six pitch addition to Twll Mawr can now lay claim to that title and with no climbing on it harder than F6c.

Prize winning day out

24 April, 2014

While on a recent family holiday in north Wales, Timo Zheng took the opportunity to call-in to DMM and claim his prize for winning the 2013 BMC Youth Climbing Series (Youth B category - born in 1998).

Retailer training and product familiarisation

10 April, 2014

Thirty-five staff from the well-known outdoor retailer, Cotswold Outdoor, have been with us for a couple of days this week; for the first of two courses we're running along with Lyon Outdoor.

Katy Forrester: boulderer to ice climber

04 April, 2014

The pared down simplicity of bouldering is a world apart from winter climbing and not a transition that you'd imagine would be an easy one to make. But this past season, former GB bouldering squad member, Katy Forrester, swapped her crash pad for a pair of ice tools and crampons.

Positron Traverse (V4) one-legged

01 April, 2014

A short film about a boulderer completing a V3/4 traverse wouldn't normally draw much attention. But it becomes the exception when a paraclimber does it with literally only one leg and no prosthetic limb.

Baron Greenback 2nd ascent

25 March, 2014

Ben Bransby has made the 2nd ascent of Pete Whittaker's Baron Greenback at Wimberry Rocks in the Peak District. The stunning line, up the arete of the narrow and overhanging prow in the middle of the crag, is protected by three very old (probably from the sixties) aid bolts close together on the steepest section.

More new Orme routes from Robins

20 March, 2014

Pete Robins undoubtedly deserves a campaign medal of some sorts for his continued efforts in adding new routes to the Ormes. This time it's two top-quality routes, an 8a+ and an 8b, both involving some burly roof climbing.

Portuguese ice

02 March, 2014

Drinking Port wine, surfing and deep water soloing may well be on your list of Portugese activities but ice climbing? Nah… they don't have ice climbing in Portugal or do they? Conditions can be fickle but Paulo Roxo proves that persistence pays dividends when it comes to Serra da Estrela winter climbing.

Crème de Violette (IX/9) by mistake

11 February, 2014

Nick Bullock reports that he has climbed his best route so far this winter… by mistake. In the process, Nick writes that himself and Tim Neill added two new pitches as a direct on the established climb Bruised Violet.

New Year bouldering in Prilep

31 January, 2014

Peter Würth reports on his New Year trip to the granite bouldering area of Prilep in Macedonia.

A month in Patagonia

25 January, 2014

Tim Neill and James McHaffie are back after a little over a month spent enjoying (?) the southern summer in Patagonia.

Megos trip report from France & Spain

17 January, 2014

Alex Megos' trip reports always leave you a little bit in awe when you read how quickly he sends so many hard routes.

Island of storms

14 January, 2014

Writer and journalist, Ed Douglas, recently returned from an attempt to follow Shackleton's crossing of South Georgia's glaciers and mountains.

Parthian Shot lives on

19 November, 2013

In 2011 Will Stanhope broke off part of the flake on the gritstone prow of Parthian Shot (E9). Ben Bransby was one of a number of top climbers who thought it had become unclimbable. But Ben Bransby has proved himself wrong.

Southeast Face of South Tower of Paine

18 November, 2013

After successfully overcoming the big wall difficulties of the South Tower of Paine's unclimbed southeast face, a storm on the final day prevented British climbers Mike ‘Twid’ Turner, Jerry Gore, Calum Muskett and French cameraman Raphael Jochaud from standing on the summit, only 100 metres of easy climbing away.  

Bullock and Boswell tearing it up in Canada

18 November, 2013

If you haven't picked up on it yet, Nick Bullock and Greg Boswell are making quite an impression out in the Canadian Rockies.

First ascent of Satan's Scream (E8 6c)

15 November, 2013

Two pegs in an obvious thin crack on The Promontory below Red Walls, marked an old Gogarth project that hadn't seen much attention for over twenty years, until James McHaffie's successful ascent of Satan's Scream (E8 6c).

Katy Whittaker on the grit

05 November, 2013

Katy Whittaker is one of the newest members of the DMM Climbing Team and she recently sent us this update on her grit season

Megos in Kalymnos

31 October, 2013

Alex Megos' plan for his Kalymnos trip was a relaxing vacation after a busy year, but that didn't seem to get in the way of him completing seventeen projects up to 8c+ and winning the North Face Festival PROject Competition.

Megos crushing down-under

24 October, 2013

Here are a couple of videos from Alex Megos' trip down-under… and lets just say he doesn't look weak.

Pretty in pink

11 October, 2013

DMM staff have been looking pretty in pink supporting our fund raising efforts for the charity, Against Breast Cancer, by buying a DMM Professional pink 'ribbon' t-shirt, with all proceeds going to the charity.

The Complete Works (E5 5b/c) by George Smith

08 October, 2013

Big George Smith has been synonymous with exploring Anglesey's cliffs it feels like since the end of the Precambrian period; leaving a legacy of adventurous routes often through uncompromising territory. George's brief description of his newest addition, The Complete Works (E5 5b/c 90 ft), at the northern end of The Range probably says it all.

Caff gives The Ambassador (E8 7a) short shrift

02 October, 2013

Also in the Ogwen and a couple of days before Emma Twyford's ascent of Rare Lichen hit the news, James McHaffie climbed the three-star Milestone Buttress project on the Central Block. Caff went back with Pete Robins a few days later who gave it a flash attempt with the gear pre-placed.

Team Poland visit DMM

26 September, 2013

One of DMM's Polish distributors, Camper, along with four climbers they support in Poland, visited us in north Wales for a three-day 'behind the scenes' look at our prouducts, that of course included going climbing.

Emma Twyford repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

24 September, 2013

Emma Twyford's ascent of the bold Rare Lichen (E9 6c), on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet) in the Ogwen Valley, means she joins a very select group of women who have climbed routes at this level of seriousness.

Megos and the Wheel of Life

12 August, 2013

Back in July Alex Megos was making headlines again, this time with the fastest ascent to date of the world-famous problem, Wheel of Life V15, in Hollow Mountain Cave, Australia.

Dark Energy first ascent 8c+

31 July, 2013

Pete Robins continues his campaign of hard new routes on north Wales limestone. His latest addition, Dark Energy 8c+, takes a spectacular line across the huge roof of Pigeon's Cave roof at its widest point. 

Indian Face repeated three times in three days

12 July, 2013

The iconic and dangerous Indian Face (E9 6b/c) on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu gets three ascents in as many days. First up was James McHaffie on Tuesday and then Calum Muskett and George Ullrich in quick succession two days later. "There's not a runner on it I would trust to lower-off from," says McHaffie. 

New products at OutDoor Friedrichshafen 2013

10 July, 2013

It's that time of year again for the OutDoor Friedrichshafen trade show and the chance for us to proudly show you the new 2013/14 products that we've been busy developing.

Pump up the Jam 8c

09 July, 2013

Pete Robins continues his long-standing affair with the Ormes, completing the Pigeon's Cave 'crack in the sky' project, to give Pump up the Jam 8c.

Megos sends Wales' ultimate problem

27 May, 2013

Visiting German climbing prodigy, Alex Megos, sends the acclaimed Porth Ysgo project, known locally as the 'Fred Nicole Roof', to give a contender for the hardest and one of the finest problems in Wales.

First ascent of Madame Allure 8B

18 April, 2013

Pete Robin's recently added a second top-quality 8B problem to the Ogwen Valley with his first ascent of Madame Allure. It takes the full-arete on the left edge of the Lily Savage block as a low-extension to what was originally climbed as Danny La Rue 7C+/8a.

Ben Bransby on Snowballing

05 April, 2013

An avalanche in the Peak District and warnings to walkers about cornices can only mean a lot of snow. Ben Bransby has been making the most of the exceptional late winter conditions with his snowball ascent of Superstition at Burbage North. He sent us this report with some background on the novelty of snowballing.

The world's first 9a onsight

26 March, 2013

Alex Megos is a name that has been under the radar on the international climbing scene but all that has now changed with his ground-breaking ascent of what is widely accepted as the world's first 9a onsight.

"Ascent of the winter" for Bullock and Robertson

14 March, 2013

Described as "the ascent of the winter" by Simon Richardson, Nick Bullock's and Guy Robertson's first ascent of Nevermore (X,10) raises the bar for Scottish onsight winter climbing.

Megos fufills his American dream

01 March, 2013

Alex Megos and Peter Würth's USA road trip wound up in Hueco Tanks. In one memorable day Alex sent two V11's, a V12 and two V13's.

Moroccan ice

14 February, 2013

Morocco isn't exactly the first place that springs to mind when you think of ice-climbing but Mike 'Twid' Turner recently returned to the Toubkal massif with his axes for the second year running.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk interview

06 February, 2013

Mina's ascent of Mecca (8b+) last year set a new standard for female climbers in the UK. Having also climbed V12, flashed 8a and looking to improve her performance in this year's Bouldering World Cup comps she is a breath of fresh air when it comes to telling you exactly how much effort is required to succeed at the top level of the sport.

Brits shine in Siurana

29 January, 2013

On the same day in Siurana, the Spanish winter gathering ground for hard sport climbing, Ryan Pasquill redpointed his first 9a and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk flashed her first 8a.

More on-the-road success

25 January, 2013

Alex Megos and Peter Würth have continued their USA road trip in fine style with Alex flashing a Font 8b and another F8c while Peter tied-on for the stunning roof crack of Desert Gold (5.13a).

Megos impresses in the States

05 December, 2012

DMM Team climbers, Alex Megos and Peter Würth, are enjoying a three-and-a-half month American road trip. So far Alex has repeated The Fly (9a) and flashed Pure Imagination (8c+). Here's a round-up of all the highlights so far.

Multi-pitch sport climbing in Morocco

29 November, 2012

Mike 'Twid' Turner has sent us a report on his recent visit to the walls of Taghia in Morocco's Atlas Mountains, where his team added an eight pitch 300 metre sport route, Fat Guides 7b+. A rack of 15 quickdraws is all you'll need to repeat it.

Reinvestment at DMM

07 November, 2012

DMM has been busy over the summer and autumn reinvesting in the company to improve efficiency and support product development. “In engineering, as with any other business, it's important to keep up with and take advantage of technological change." 

Jewel in the crown for Robins' climbing year

13 October, 2012

Pete Robins was mightily relieved to be able to find the reserves of energy to complete his F8c+ project on the Little Orme as climbing conditions at the Diamond become increasingly unreliable with the approach of winter.

Isles of Wonder F.A. video

06 September, 2012

Video of Pete Robins' first ascent of Isles of Wonder, Font 8b, in the Ogwen Valley.

Ogwen Font 8B for Pete Robins

06 August, 2012

Pete Robins' perseverance paid off, when a brief easing of the rain let him snatch the first ascent of the Font 8b, Isles of Wonder, in the Ogwen Valley.

Reflections on the Slovak Direct

21 July, 2012

Nick Bullock has had three weeks since getting back from Alaska to reflect on his and Andy Houseman's ascent of the Slovak Direct. Looking back how does he feel about the experience?

Greenpointing and trad in the Frankenjura

16 July, 2012

Think of the Frankenjura and sport climbing comes to mind. It's where the term redpointing originated. But over the last few years there has been a growing interest in greenpointing and establishing new trad protected routes on the area's limestone crags. In the video, Heiko Queitsch, one of the new movement of Franken climbers to embrace trad, explains why he finds it so appealing.  

First ascent of Britain's hardest slab climb

10 July, 2012

Despite the showers and general dampness, James McHaffie has completed Johnny Dawes' great unfinished project, The Meltdown, on the West Wall of Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig Quarries, giving Britain's hardest slab climb and a contender for the World's hardest single pitch slab route.

Something's Burning E9 for Charlie Woodburn

05 July, 2012

Charlie Woodburn gives us some background to his impressive new Pembroke E9, Something's Burning. His fifth route at this grade, he describes it as: "Physically way harder than any of the other E9's I've done and somewhere in the middle for boldness." 

Alaska success for Twid Turner and team

01 June, 2012

Mike 'Twid' Turner and Dave Gladwin, combining forces with another team, endured an eight day 'suffer-fest' to make the first ascent of the NW Pillar of Triple Middle Peak in Alaska.

More new routes on slate

15 May, 2012

New routes and even whole areas continue to be opened up in the Dinorwig Quarries. Pete Robins has added a cool looking F8a+ arete, perched above the void of Australia and the Lloyd-Jones family have developed an attractive slab, with several routes on it, across the plateau from the Peppermint Tower. 

North Wales Limestone

24 April, 2012

The North Wales Limestone guidebook should be with us by the end of the year. In the meantime there is a taster app and we've added a topo download for the recently developed Creigiau Heulog.  

Leo Houlding's 'Lost World' adventure

03 April, 2012

Life goes from one extreme to another for Leo Houlding. He called in at DMM the other day with a shopping list for some new kit for his forthcoming trip to Greenland having not long returned from a successful climbing adventure deep in the Amazon jungle. We took the chance to put a few questions to Leo about the first ascent the team made of Yopo Wall (E6 6b, A1) on Cerro Autana.  

Switching axes in Canada

18 March, 2012

Nick Bullock and DMM's Rob Greenwood are out in the Canadian Rockies putting the new top-of-the-range Switch ice axe through its paces, on routes such as the sustained and impressive No Use in Crying (IV M7) from 2008. Product development is grounded in good research and design but you'll only know if you've got it right after extensive field-testing and feedback.

A winning partnership

05 February, 2012

All the materials used in climbing equipment have to be carefully considered. The collaborative efforts of Distrupol and DMM, in finding a plastic to meet the requirements for use with the Dragon Cam, won them a national award.

Good times and big numbers

31 January, 2012

Recently, we've had a few texts from Nick Bullock in Scotland with some double figure roman numerals in them, so we thought we'd find out what he's been up to over the last couple of weeks.

14 million carabiners later for Gareth Hughes

22 December, 2011

When DMM's production line falls silent for the Christmas break it'll be especially poignant for Gareth Hughes, who will not be returning, as he's taking retirement after 24 years working on the shop floor.

Bullock F.A. VIII/10 on the Ben

17 December, 2011

Following a reception for 'Adventurers and Explorers' with The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh at the Palace, Nick Bullock headed up to Scotland and although "not warmed up yet" he's climbed a new VIII/10 on Ben Nevis.

Research cooperation at DMM

12 December, 2011

DMM regularly uses its testing facilities and engineering expertise to help out with university research, as well as working with commercial partners on product development. The latest university researcher to drop-in was examining the strength of abandoned and retired climbing kit.

DMM wins Welsh Exporter of the Year Award

06 December, 2011

DMM's strong export growth helps it win Welsh Exporter of the Year in the Daily Post Achievement Wales Awards.

Like father like son

28 November, 2011

The slate quarries are clearly in the blood of the Lloyd-Jones family as nine year-old Celt climbs a new line in the Dinorwig Quarry a few days after his dad adds yet another multi-pitch route to  Twll Mawr.

Three North Faces

21 November, 2011

At the start of 2011, DMM's Sales Rep, Rob Greenwood, decided it was about time he got serious about the Alps. Despite his alpine experience being limited to a Jonathan Conville Memorial training course but with plenty of 'Scottish gnarl' under his belt, the 'Great North Faces' seemed like a good place to start.

Boogie ‘Til You Puke – or an Austrian on his first date with an offwidth

14 November, 2011

Alex Luger, recently returned from Squamish, recalls his first encounter with an offwidth on his ascent of Boogie 'Til You Puke.

'Line of the Ormes' climbed & Detritus Wall access

24 October, 2011

Pete Harrison has spent several days opening up access to the Little Orme's rarely visited Detritus Wall, despite its three-star sport routes, before going on to climb what Dave Lyon called the 'line of the Ormes'. Alberta Rose 7c is comparable in quality to the 1991 route just to its right, that itself has been described as "one of the best sport climbing experiences the country has to offer."

Rebel with a cause

05 October, 2011

Lara Croft is no stranger to North Wales since scenes of Tomb Raider - The Cradle of Life were filmed here in 2002.

UK's longest sport route

03 October, 2011

Ian Lloyd-Jones' latest route on the slate can claim to be the longest sport route in the UK. Rising for 133 metres in five pitches from the very bottom of Twll Mawr, it even features a Quarryman style groove.

Book deal for Nick Bullock

11 September, 2011

In 2003, Nick Bullock gave up his job as a PE Officer in the Prison Service to dedicate himself to climbing. Having now signed a book deal with Vertebrate Publishing covering his life and adventures up to that point, he's going to be busy spending his rest days writing over the next few months.

Dorys E9 tour de force repeated

02 September, 2011

"The bottom wall is not a place to stop and consider what you're doing" said Nick Bullock after making the second ascent of Haston's Melody at Craig Dorys on the Lleyn Peninsula.

Robins completes LPT F8c+ trilogy

31 August, 2011

Having missed out on the first ascent of Megalopa F8c+ at the Great Orme, Pete Robins 'digs deep' and settles for second, completing the trilogy of F8c+ routes at Lower Pen Trwyn.

Do You Know..? 3rd ascent from Woodburn

25 August, 2011

Charlie Woodburn takes a break from hard technical slabs to make the third ascent of Do you Know where your Children are? An impressive E8/9 addition to Huntsman's Leap.

Summer crop of routes from Bullock

17 August, 2011

If you were to judge Nick Bullock by the names he has given four new routes recently, including an E7 6c, you'd reckon he had been reading too much Lewis Carroll in-between listening to Johnny Cash.

Pen Trwyn F8c+ project falls to Dyer

09 August, 2011

More action from Lower Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme. Neil Dyer finally redpoints the project that he has looked so close to completing over the last few weeks. For Pete Robins, who was with Neil at the crag, it was a bitter-sweet moment as they had been trying the project together since the end of May.

McHaffie makes historic repeat

31 July, 2011

James McHaffie has written his name into British sport climbing history by making the first repeat of Carson's The Big Bang F9a at Lower Pen Trwyn, nearly fifteen years since it was established.

Mecca quickdraw test

29 July, 2011

DMM's strength-test results on the perma-draws recently removed from Mecca at Raven Tor highlight the potential dangers of fixed gear such as tat and slings, aside from their visual impact.

The Trumpet Slappers E7 6c repeated

14 July, 2011

Nick Bullock described the second ascent of Trumpet Slappers E7 6c in the Llanberis Pass as: "Amazing climbing, all really pumpy and physical with lots of back-hands and side-pulls."

Four pitch sport route added to Twll Mawr

07 July, 2011

Well known slate activist Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness add a four pitch sport route to the South Wall of Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig Quarry. Supermassive Black Hole at F7a, 6b+, 7a/6c+, 6b is likely to become a slate classic.

Jerry Moffatt goes back to school

21 June, 2011

Last Saturday, Jerry, who rarely climbs now and is much more likely to be spotted surfing, pulled his rock boots on to join 17 year-old St. Davids School Climbing Captain, Tim Muller, trying out a few problems on the three-and-a-half metre high wall.

Outcome on Kyashar

16 May, 2011

Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman will soon be returning to the UK having been unable to get on the South Pillar of Kyashar because of too much snow and it was the unconsolidated 'white stuff' that also thwarted their attempt on its West Ridge. After being away for over a month without success it's no wonder Nick Bullock is in a reflective mood on his return to Kathmandu.

Orme projects fall to Robins

15 May, 2011

Pete Robins has been making the most of his Spring fitness with success on arguably the most visually compelling line in Parisella's Cave by linking Lou Ferrino into Bonnie giving a mega link-up reckoned to warrant V13/Font 8b. In Pigeon's Cave he has extended Stiff Upper Lip and Koo bumping their grades up to F8b and F7c respectively.

Andy Parkin's Universal Man

24 March, 2011

Artist and alpinist, Andy Parkin, was at the recent Llanberis Mountain Film Festival to exhibit a sculpture. The plan was to see what inspiration Andy could draw from the recycling skips at DMM and conjure up a piece in a handful of hours on the day of the opening.

Godzilla (IX,8) - A monster outing

16 March, 2011

Nick Bullock has finally got himself a blog that doesn't run out of bandwidth all the time and he's been having plenty of adventures to post about on it. His latest being a new mega-route with Pete Benson and Guy Robertson on one of Scotland's most fearsome winter cliffs, Beinn Bhan, Applecross.

Update on Dragon 4 & 5 Recall - 11/03/2011

11 March, 2011

Just 3 weeks from the recall being issued we are pleased to announce that the first rebuilt replacement cams have now left DMM, and have reached their original owners this morning.

Important Safety Notice: Dragon size 4 and 5 recall

16 February, 2011

For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall for all Dragon Cams size 4 and 5 with turned axle bosses.  At present there is no evidence that suggests the size 4 Dragon Cams are affected. However, we feel it appropriate to include them in the recall due to similarities in construction.

Equal to Everybody Else

14 February, 2011

Nik Royale is a climber and wheelchair user with progressive cerebral palsy. His biggest climbing challenge so far has been to train and put himself forward for the Mountain Leader Training (MLT) Climbing Wall Award. In this inspiring and honest short film, Equal to Everbody Else, just posted on-line by 2rays Productions, Nik explains his motivations for wanting to try and achieve the Award. The film follows his progress to the 'pass or fail' assessment day in October 2009.

Dragon 6 recall update - 24/01/2011

24 January, 2011

Following on from our Dragon 6 recall in July 2010 we'd like to update you all on our progress.

Dragon Cam 6 issue resolved

14 October, 2010

Following the recall of Dragon Cam 6 units earlier this year the issue has now been resolved and new modified replacement units are being sent back this week.

Dragon 6 recall update

24 September, 2010

The original recall notice was issued on 23/07/10, and since then we have received the majority of the Dragons back either from Individuals, Retailers or Distributors. However we wish to speed up the process, and also do everything possible to ensure we get 100% of the affected units accounted for as soon as possible.

Recall on the Dragon Camming device size 6

23 July, 2010

DMM International has identified a raw material problem that may affect  the strength on certain models of the Dragon Cam in size 6 (Product Code  A7056A)

Nick Bullock's Shockwave E6 6A

15 May, 2010

Nick Bullock adds a new E6 to the unfrequented Afterburner Wall that neighbours the Mission Impossible cliff in North Wales' Ogwen Valley.