Esoteric but accessible might be the best way to describe the location of a new 7c slate groove climbed by Pete Robins
. There was even discussion about whether it's the closest 7c to Llanberis. At the invite of Noel Craine Pete broke with his Orme habit to head over to Glyn Rhonwy, the complex of quarry holes behind Llanberis on the Cefn Du hillside.
Noel had bolted and taken on the striking groove as a project but decided, especially after a hold broke, that it was going to require just a bit more effort than he was prepared to give and generously offered it to Pete - a man who knows a thing or two about slate grooves.
Pete didn't flash it on a top-rope but it wasn't long before he'd worked out the tricky moves by the second bolt to get stood on a borehole and the redpoint was quickly behind him. Neil Dyer, climbing with Pete and back visiting from Squamish, got the second ascent immediately afterwards.
Pete described the overhanging groove as great climbing and definitely worth a star, saying: "If it was across the valley [Dinorwig] and on the Serengeti level it'd get plenty of ascents. The hardest climbing is near the start but the difficulty is sustained all the way up to the step-out right at the top."
Named Admire or Ignore, after Noel's reference to the sculptures passed on approaching the route, rather than the route itself, it's less than 10 mins from the Clegir Road tucked away in a small quarry hole (Chwarl Plas Goch) next to Shotgun Quarry (Llanberis Slate guidebook p.310)
One of the original slateheads, Martin Crook, is responsible for sparking interest in this obscure part of the Glyn Rhonwy complex, recently climbing the fine looking groove next to Admire or Ignore, to give Demon Landlord (6c) [only spoilt by needing a few days of dry weather to be climbable] and a couple of easier routes at the back of Shotgun Quarry.
Driving from Llanberis, park at a large lay-by on your left by a metal gate opposite a brand new road and before you reach Film Set Quarry. An overgrown strip of tarmac leads up from the gate, curving round to the left and the quarry hole lies behind a small purple slate tip on your right [map]. Note that climbing in Glyn Rhonwy isn't sanctioned by the owners, Gwynedd Council.
Photos: Pete Robins making the most of his 'project' invite to complete Admire or Ignore (7c) in the esoteric Chwarl Plas Goch. Demon Landlord is the obvious chalked 6c groove to the right. © Ray Wood