New Anglesey E8 for McHaffie

15 February, 2016
James McHaffie on the upper half of the first ascent of The Gravity Wave (E8 6c), Trearddur Bay. © Ray Wood

Making the most of a dry weekend in north Wales James 'Caff' McHaffie picked off a hard new line at Trearddur Bay on Anglesey. The Gravity Wave (E8 6c) takes a counter-diagonal line to Chicama (E8/9 6c), Tim Emmett's tour de force from 2003, on the small but severely overhanging sea cliff nicknamed the 'Face of Adversity'.

Starting on the far left of the zawn below The Crow Road the twenty metre line sweeps across the crag with a shake-out in Chicama. The crux of the route is in the first half and the upper part is bold with poorish cams needing careful placement. Caff had noticed the quartzy line leading out right of Chicama when he made the third ascent of that route in 2013.

Caff said: "It's probably a bit easier than Chicama and around 7c+ in technical difficulty. It's great climbing on nice holds but it'd be a hard one to onsight."

Caff had checked out the route the day previously, requiring some tricky back aiding to look at the line. Warming up with a couple of goes on top-rope, the actual ascent went smoothly although the high tides and waves threatened to soak the starting moves and the belayer, Alex Mason. Fortunately, Alex had his prusik loops with him as you don't get any second chances seconding this route.

Southerly facing, the 'Face of Adversity' is a welcome sun-trap in winter. You can find details of how to reach the crag etc. in the new Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook.

Extreme top-roping. Pete Robins enjoying a session on The Gravity Wave. © Ray Wood
No second chances seconding The Gravity Wave. Alex Mason sorting out his prusik loops. © Ray Wood