Brits shine in Siurana

29 January, 2013
Ryan Pasquill at the end of the crux section of Jungle Speed (9a). © Ray Wood

Ryan Pasquill, out in Siurana for nine weeks, has quickly made his mark with a redpoint of Jungle Speed (9a) in three sessions. This 17 metre power orientated route has seen a handful of ascents since it was first climbed by the German, Daniel Jung, in March 2010.

The meat of the route on la Capella crag is low-down with around seven moves to reach a pocket. Ryan described it as getting on for a V10 into a V9 with an 8a finish.

It was Ryan's first route at this grade with his previous hardest ascent being Evolution (F8c+) at Raven Tor. Ryan said: "I'm not sure about the grade but it definitely suited me. If I'd had my wits about me I'd have climbed it quicker."

He added: "It probably wouldn't get 9a in Britain but as I'm on holiday I'll take the tick. The moves are harder than on Evolution but then that is longer."

[As an aside and for the record James McHaffie would like to point out it was his first 9a belay]

At the same time across the valley on Siuranella Centre Mina Leslie-Wujastyk was flashing her first 8a, Memorias de una Sepia, to join a select few British female climbers to have flashed a route at this grade. She followed this up with a redpoint of La Cara Que No Miente (F8a+) having had one brief previous session on it. A short powerful route in sharp contrast to the 30 metre gently overhanging Memorias de una Sepia.

She said: "I haven't tried flashing many hard sport routes but the 8a was thoroughly enjoyable, especially since it was in the sun. A fitting finish to my last day in Siurana although if I was here for a bit longer there are plenty of other routes I'd like to try."

Updated (May 2013) with video: