James McHaffie's week in the Mournes finished on a high note with the second ascent of Ricky Bell's The Peace Line (E8 6c) at the Buzzard's Roost. Climbed ground-up with no falls, McHaffie fought hard to get kit in place, climbing up to the crux and reversing back to the ground a couple of times before working out a static way of doing the moves right to the arete (see photo). [Ed. Effectively a flash ascent].
The Peace Line was originally headpointed by Ricky in autumn 2010, climbing the groove line and arete left of Divided Years, described as: "bouldery climbing in a spectacular position."
McHaffie said: "It isn't as physical as Divided but more of a lead and harder work getting in the gear. A really cool sequence of moves. I used a different sequence to the way Ricky did it in the video In the Middle."
Ricky has also updated us with a few details of his new route, Peace Time (E8 7a), from earlier in the week.
"I'd looked at the line directly up the obvious blank section between The Spirit Level and War Music in the middle of the main face in 2008 after doing Divided Years."
"The big rock-over heel move at the start of the boulder problem section was nails and I put it on the back-burner, then sort of forgot about it, until recently. I'd found some things on the East Face of Cove and at Fair Head to distract me."
"Peace Time climbs really well. It's got a bit of a shocker of a mini roof at the bottom, knees in your face style, then there's a cool hanging ledge to stand around on, before a boulder problem in the middle section that starts with a real hamstring twanger of a rock-over using this amazing undercut ball thing with a perfect thumb button on top of it."
"Basically, anywhere on that face is amazing. Buzzard's Roost is a pretty special crag in the Mournes. You never normally see any climbers on it so this week has been really unusual. The whole cliff has this perched steep feel to it."