North Wales Limestone

24 April, 2012
North Wales Limestone guidebook author, Pete Harrison, on his power endurance classic, Red Meat (7b) at Craig Pen Gogarth. One of many new additions that'll be appearing in the forthcoming guidebook. © Ray Wood

Work on the new definitive North Wales Limestone guidebook continues as half-forgotten crags are rediscovered and developed. Written by Pete Harrison and Andy Boorman in their spare time it should go to print in the autumn and be out before the end of this year.

Pete explained: "I really want to showcase the crags and highlight some of the great limestone climbing to be had on them. Not just the popular routes on Mayfair Wall and LPT, but also the lesser-known and equally as good climbs elsewhere. It'll be good to have the opportunity over the summer to develop some of the currently bird restricted crags a bit more."

He added: "The guide will cover from as far west as the Fedw Fawr and Benllech crags on Anglesey, eastwards all along the A55, to the Devil's Gorge near Mold."

It is planned that all the profit from the book after paying printers etc. will go to the North Wales Bolt Fund. The book is a real team effort with contributions from the likes of Chris Doyle (recent history), Tim Neill (Castell y Gwynt), Pete Robins (hard Lower Pen Trwyn routes), Ian Lloyd-Jones (Benllech) and Colin Struthers (The Gallery) among others.

Alongside the guidebook an app will also be available for both iOS (iPhone) and Android devices. A free iOS taster app is currently available from the iTunes store, North Wales Lime Lite, with definitive details of Castell-y-Gwynt (bird restrictions until July 31st) and a couple of the A55 crags near Dyserth.

One small crag that has been resurrected, lies below the Marine Drive on the west side of the Orme above the WWII Coastal Artillery School remains. When Tony Shelmerdine, helped mainly by Norman Clacher set about tidying it up, it looked particularly uninviting with just a few rusting bolt studs, some loose blocks and any details of what had been climbed long forgotten.

Creigiau Heulog topo

Creigiau Heulog (Sunny Crags), as it is now known, sports around twenty short well-bolted routes up to F6c. Tony rebolted and cleaned what existing lines were there on the right-hand section and added some routes of his own. Local limestone veteran, Colin Goodey, in his seventies, also got involved and developed the previously untouched left-hand section.

In the meantime, until it appears in the new guidebook, we've put together a downloadable pdf topo with details to the crag here or click on the photo opposite. In some cases consensus on the exact route grade is probably still up for discussion.

You can donate to the North Wales bolt Fund through the Limestone Wiki where you'll also find a discussion on 'what should and shouldn't be bolted on the Ormes?' and the chance to comment on the NWL graded list.

Related News Item: 'Line of the Ormes' Climbed & Detritus Wall Access