The Complete Works (E5 5b/c) by George Smith

08 October, 2013

 

George Smith FA The Complete Works

Big George Smith has been synonymous with exploring Anglesey's cliffs it feels like since the end of the Precambrian period; leaving a legacy of adventurous routes often through uncompromising territory. Recently he has been focusing his attention on The Range, quietly adding a succession of first ascents. George's brief description of his newest addition, The Complete Works (E5 5b/c 90 ft), at the northern end of The Range probably says it all.
 
"I spotted the wall whilst exploring on The Range and thought it would be a fantastic thing to on-sight as it looked protectable with cams and slings. As ever with these cliffs it was steeper and harder than it looks. It actually overhangs a metre as I found out on rappel after completing the thing.

On first acquaintance it appeared to be hopelessly loose with all the features in a mobile, wobbly state. This initial impression was correct. However, I was egged on by the presence of bearable protection.

Occasionally when the cams were scarce, spikes came within reach that could be broken and discarded into the zawn below, leaving shorter stumpier features which would take a sling.

I became hopeful when reaching a chimney which allowed for ideal weight distribution. This led to a slopey loose place, above which I encountered difficult ivy climbing.

Repeat ascentionists would be advised to take a huge collection of cams (some huge) and an equally large collection of long slings. When I got to the top I had the odd experience of not being pumped - this has never happened to me on anything before - but there wasn't really anything solid enough to hang around on!"

George Smith FA The Complete Works

All photos © Tony Loxton