Pump up the Jam 8c

09 July, 2013
Pete Robins in action on the day he successfully completed Pump up the Jam (8c), Pigeon's Cave. © Ray WoodPete Robins has completed a new 8c to the right of The Fanatic in Pigeon's Cave on the Great Orme. This last line of bolts on the right-hand side of the Cave was described in the 1997 North Wales Limestone guidebook as: "a project to a 'crack in the sky'."

The hardest move on Pump up the Jam is reaching a sloper at the base of this short crack and itself is reckoned to be a 7C+/V10 move. From here, getting your right hand into an undercut at the the top of the crack, with a big move to a sloper and the easier slab top-out is 7B+.

The route compensates for its lack of height with its intensity. Relatively easy climbing leads to two good holds by the second clip followed by about twelve moves and one more clip to the lower-off.

The route took Pete far longer than he envisaged when he first began trying it, getting close quite quickly, but in the end taking around ten sessions. On the day of eventual success, Pete got to the lower-off on his fifth redpoint, after summoning up a bit of anger and deciding to dispense with the small adjustments to get the holds perfectly.

Pete said: "I didn't really want to give it 8c but that's the amount of effort it took to complete it."

Nobody appears to know who bolted the line although climbers such as Kristian Clemmow had tried it in the past and Mark Katz had been on it.

Pete has a long standing relationship with the Ormes: back in August 2011 he completed the Lower Pen Trwyn 8c+ trilogy and in October last year he added Diamond Dogs (8c+) to The Diamond.