Megos trip report from France & Spain

17 January, 2014

El Turon Siurana
Alex Megos' trip reports always leave you a little bit in awe when you read how quickly he sends so many hard routes. Definitely a climber at the top of his game. Over to Alex...

"After a one-week stay in France in the areas St. Leger and Claret to climb some of the old school classics the trip brought us to Spain! There is one thing I want to mention about the old school classics in these two areas of France. They are f***ing hard!

There were some 8b+'s which felt harder then some of the 8c+'s I did afterwards in Spain. I don’t want to say that they are holiday grades in Spain; I just wanted to say that there are some pretty hard 8b+ in some old school areas. And they are worth being climbed because they are really good! No matter if hard for the grade or not.

Back to Spain. This time I had my focus more on Margalef, as there was not too much left in Siurana. But anyway we just had around 10 days in Margalef, because afterwards we had booked one week El Chorro, climbing in the sun.

Main focus in Margalef were the sectors 'Espadelles' and 'El Laboratori'. I kind of have the feeling that this trip was the '2. Go-trip', because I did a lot of the hard routes on my second attempt. Here some of the ascents in Margalef:

  • Speed Baby 8b+ (2. Go)
  • 24 Hours Party People 8c (2. Go)
  • Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies 8c (3. Go)
  • Pal Norte 8c+ (2. Go)
  • Pal Oeste 8c+ (2. Go)
  • Pal Este 8c (1. Go)
  • Super Vixens 8b+/c (2. Go)
  • Cocaina pura y dura 8b+/c (2. Go)
  • BumbayĆ© 8c+ (2. Go)
  • La Ley Innata 8c+/9a (2. Go)

I had a pretty good day on the 2nd of January, where I did BumbayƩ and La Ley Innata both second try within one hour, although it was already my 6th climbing day in a row.

And there is another route I climbed, which took me four tries. The route is called La Bongada and when it was a project they thought it might be around 8c+/9a. Then Ramon did the first ascent of it calling it 8c. I repeated it and would definitely suggest 9a. It was nothing to do with 8c! Ramon might be just too strong ;-). When you compare it to some of the 8c+ in the same sector, it is a hard 9a. But for me it felt like a normal 9a.

The time was over quite fast and then we took the plane from Barcelona to Malaga, to enjoy one week of warm weather in El Chorro.

During our stay in El Chorro we also checked out the 'Chilam Balam Cave' for two days. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a guidebook so we just tried what looked nice. That was a funny game. Some days later, we found out how hard some of the routes were, which we climbed over there:

  • La Rubia 8c+ (2. Go)
  • Garbo 8c (2. Go - this is the first pitch of Adam Ondras Planta de Shiva)
  • ??? 8c (onsight)

I also did one 8c onsight, which actually is my first 8c onsight ever. Unfortunately I couldn’t find out the name of the route. But there is still a lot to do, so will be definitely going there for another trip to this cave!"

Alex Megos in a chilly Spain