More on-the-road success

25 January, 2013
Peter Wurth, Desert Gold (5.13a), Red Rocks. © Tom ThudiumFollowing on from their last road trip report, Alex Megos and Peter Würth have continued checking out some of the finest climbing areas in the States.

On their way to Indian Creek they stopped by at Glenwood Springs for a short interview with Rock and Ice magazine. That afternoon at a nearby crag Alex flashed Gutless Wonder F8c with Peter's beta.

Crack climbing in Indian Creek was a completely new experience for both of them, which meant that "5.10 was hard, 5.11 really hard and 5.12 mostly impossible." After a couple of days getting used to the area and discovering some new climbing techniques like hand jams, ring locks and finger locks they managed to climb some incredible lines such as Johnny Cat 5.11+, Wild Cat 5.11+ and Slice and Dice 5.12.

Alex's endurance ensured success on the 'must-do' routes King Cat 5.11+, Way Rambo 5.12- and Bad Cat 5.12b. In Zion they had planned to climb some multi-pitch routes but owing to bad weather they could only look at the classics like Moonlight Buttress from the ground.

At Red Rocks they finally got to use the bouldering pads they'd been carrying around for the last couple of months. Their verdict was: "The bouldering there is a bit spread out and you sometimes have to walk a little to get to the areas, but there are some world class lines on perfect sandstone including the six metre high 60 degree shield appropriately named Wet Dream."

Peter and Alex both managed to do the right-hand version of this problem (V11) while Alex also climbed the original line at V12. Following this Alex stayed with the bouldering and ticked some more five star boulder problems including Stand and Deliver (V11), Book of Nightmares (V11/12) and Fountainhead (V12).

Peter opted for some roped action on the awesome roof crack Desert Gold (5.13a). After trying it for three days he finally sent it on their last day at Red Rocks before leaving for Bishop.

Alex Megos making the scary pull-over on to the slab finish of Evilution Direct (V11), Bishop. © Vera WarmbrunnDriving up the Buttermilk road and parking just in front of Evilution they were totally inspired by the perfectly shaped granite eggs in a beautiful setting and commented: "Most of the boulders are higher than usual, which makes them outstanding, but sometimes also very scary."

On their first day at Bishop Alex flashed Blood Meridian, graded a mighty V13/Font 8B, but in his opinion it felt more like V12. He added Mandala to his tally and on their last day Alex finally got a chance to try the famous Bishop highball, Evilution, as there was a bunch of people with lots of Pads below it for the first time. After some huge falls from the lip and above it, owing to not knowing the beta, Alex finally managed Evilution Direct (V11). Alex said: "A good last day and a great last problem in Bishop." Alex and Peter will find plenty more top-quality problems waiting for them at their final destination, Hueco Tanks.