Next level from Megos in Parisella's Cave

12 June, 2016
Alex Megos on the Louis/Halfway House link-up (8B+). © Ray Wood

Over two successive afternoons, Alex Megos left Parisella Cave regulars open-mouthed as he ticked-off one difficult bloc after another, leaving his mark with a new 8B+ link-up.

Alex was in north Wales for a DMM European team meet. After a product development session on the Friday morning he was keen to get going and headed up to the Jerry's Roof boulder in the Llanberis Pass.

Pool of Bethesda (8A+) was the first notable problem of the day for Alex, choosing to use the poor intermediate holds to reach the large pocket rather than jumping for it. Before long before he was back at the top of the same bloc but with the addition of Malc's Start (8B+). Then it was over to Llandudno and Parisella's Cave.

Although conditions at Parisella's were far from ideal, with condensation at the back of the cave and no wind, that didn't stop Alex from sending Halfway House 8A/+, Director's Cut 8B, and East Coker 8B (probable first repeat of Chris Davies' 2006 problem) before finishing off with Louis Armstrong 8B. What Alex described as: "A good day out. I guess they suited my style."

Even though some of the problems were an addition to the stand start version he'd just climbed, most high standard boulderers would have been more than pleased managing just one of those 8B's.

The next day, with the weather looking unsettled, Alex headed back to the Cave in the afternoon. This time he had his sights set on the new link-up of Louis Armstrong into Halfway House and it didn't take many attempts. Alex reckoned it was a soft 8B+ or since it's about 20 moves long, more like 8c+. Alex, in his usual modest manner was more concerned about having a good session, rather than the grade, and finished off with Le Dernier Atrocity 8B.

Local climber, Pete Robins, who knows the Cave as well as anyone, said: "I've been coming to the Cave for years and the standard hasn't particularly gone up in that time, so it was really good to see someone come here who is clearly climbing at a new level of strength and fitness."