North Wales limestone will be in the spotlight this year as it is set to get a definitive new guidebook from a team of psyched local activists. An unfortunate coincidence last Autumn meant that there was the possibility that it was going to see not one but two new guidebooks, as Jack Geldard from Rockfax had also been working on a guide to roughly the same area.
Rockfax however, announced a change of plan at the end of this January. They are going to step aside so as not to compete directly with the other publication spearheaded by Pete Harrison. This makes sense as the relatively small number of guidebook sales generated by the area would have struggled to justify two guidebooks. It is planned that profits from Harrison's guide will go towards the North Wales Bolt Fund.
The last guideboook to North Wales limestone was the now out of print 1997 one from Rockfax. Since then there has been plenty of changes, new routes and rebolting at crags such as Llanddulas Cave, Penmaen Head and on The Ormes.
It appears likely that some of the developed but currently restricted climbing areas above The Marine Drive toll road on The Great Orme will be reopened in the near future. This follows a favourable geologist's report for Conwy Council, after an inspection with the British Mountaineering Council's (BMC) Access and Conservation Officer for Wales, Elfyn Jones. As the Great Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest approval also has to be sought from the Countryside Council for Wales.
Access restrictions were originally imposed by the local Council over concerns about rockfall on to the road directly below the cliffs. Green and red marker posts at the foot of the crags indicate open and restricted areas. The current access arrangements with Conwy Council entailed the British Mountaineering Council paying for the installation of double bolt lower-offs at Upper Pen Trwyn, and being responsible for their ongoing maintenance and inspection as part of a three year rolling programme. The BMC has allocated £2000 from the 2011 budget to continue this work. All the local climbers who have voluntarily been checking and replacing anchors, primarily Andy Boorman, Pete Harrison and Chris Parkin chose to donate their expenses to the Bolt Fund.
If areas reopen then they will also require new anchors, fixed gear replacing and a tidy-up. This is going to require a lot of new bolts and although an application for funding has been made to the BMC a good deal of the cost will have to be borne by the North Wales Bolt Fund. This fund relies on donations from the climbing community and companies associated with climbing, to replace old and very often corroded bolts on sport routes along the North Wales coast as well as in Clwyd and the slate quarries.
Chris Parkin, said: "The Bolt Fund is loosely organised and aims to help anybody involved in either new route development or re-equipping. Quality stainless components cost at least four times the cheap stuff and by buying these in bulk at discount the fund has ensured that most new equipment will last. Somehow though we have to find a way to pay for all these shiny new bolts."
As part of the effort to top up the Bolt Fund, the Indy Climbing Wall on Anglesey has been selling unwanted rock shoes, carabiners, wires etc. over the winter. Any of the kit relating to safety is scrutinised by Chris Parkin, a UIAGM Mountain Guide and IRATA assessor, before being going on sale. If people can't get to the Indy to drop off stuff then they can send it to Chris at Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Glyn Garth, Menai Bridge, LL59 5NU.
Cash donations to the bolt fund can be made through PayPal here. Comments on routes and information with reference to North Wales Limestone can be left on the wiki. Access details to the Ormes can be found on the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD).
Photos: top: Old and new bolts on Mayfair Wall, Pen Trwyn, Great Orme. © Ray Wood bottom: Upper Pen Trwyn above the Marine Drive toll road with climbers on
The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b. © Ray Wood