The Charlatan (IX 9) repeated

25 January, 2015

 

Dave Garry on the steepness of The Charlatan's first pitch. © Dave Almond

Pete Harrison and Si Frost's new Clogwyn Du route, The Charlatan (IX 9), didn't have to wait long for a second ascent. Dave Garry was given a day off work at DMM - advantage of working for a climbing company that understands you have to grab Welsh winter conditions when you can - and headed up to the crag with Dave Almond early on Friday morning.

The Charlatan takes an obvious line up the prow right of Cracking Up (IX 9) and it had seen quite a few attempts by various climbers over the years. Dave Garry had tried the line with Pete the day before the first ascent but stormy weather had forced the pair to retreat.

The 'two Daves' confirmed the grade with Dave G commenting: "The grade was spot-on with the first pitch being a steep tech 9 and the second one being no push-over at hard tech 8. A great route." He added: "I led the first pitch that is quite spicy and pumpy to start, then a little delicate and run-out, before a slap in the face finish to the belay."

"The next pitch up the steep corner above looks like a walk in the park but don't be fooled. There's very little for the feet and a technicians dream. I left that one for Dave Almond."

"The thaw hit as we topped out and a wild warm wind greeted us stripping everything. We heard slumps going off across the cwm and the cornice across the way looked like it would go at any minute. All that remained was for us to walk out in the rain."