Megos in Kalymnos

31 October, 2013
Alex Megos on the first ascent of La 7a de Myriam (8b+/c), Sector Noufaro. © Simon Montmory

After a busy year climbing and travelling, Alex Megos had in mind some relaxation for his fourth visit to the Greek island of Kalymnos. But with so many projects to go at, the beach had to take a back seat.

Alex said: "It's been a good but quiet tiring year with all my travels. My plan for this vacation was to take it easy but then you are there in this climbing and holiday paradise, with so many new projects that everybody wants you to try. I just couldn't hold my fingers still. Maybe I was a bit naive to believe I can do a relaxed beach holiday in Kalymnos."

"So as a compromise I said to myself I'll not try any project for longer than a day."

In the end Alex climbed every project he tried and left the island having added seventeen new routes up to 8c+ (list at end of article).

Alex added: "I stayed with my friends Simon and Myriam Montmory who live on the island. Fortunately for me, Simon's second passion - after climbing - is bolting new routes. He has a real talent to bolt difficult lines, although he was supposed to be finding a good 7a for his wife. That's how it was for this trip; plenty of'7a routes' waiting for their first ascent."

Alex was also in Kalymnos to take part in the North Face Climbing Festival and made quick work of winning the PROject competition. The competitors had two days to complete four routes especially bolted on a virgin crag (Skalia) for the competition. In four hours Alex had onsighted two of them, flashed another and completed the hardest route with a suggested grade of 8c/+ on his second attempt. Over at, Gabriele Moroni, who took part in the competition and had recently done three Frankenjura 9a's in five days, said of Megos: "He is from another planet."

Alex Megos making the first ascent across the big roof of J.F.O. (8c+), Sector Arhi. © Simon Montmory

[Alex's Kalymnos completed Projects: Super Tonga 8a+, Develope as you are 8a+, My Self, not a Fish (extension) 8b, 7a l’Envers 8b, Team Gawafes 8b, Finally not 7a 8b+, Begraveningsplatz 8b+, Abyssos 8b+, Khaos 8b+, Mal au Coeur 8b+, La 7a de Myriam 8b+/c, Opal 8b+/8c, Triste Saccage 8c, Stay as you are 8c, Feel the Cold 8c/+, Klesha 8c/+, J.F.O. 8c+.]