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North Wales bouldering blitz by Robins

Ahead of the new North Wales Bouldering guidebook, Pete Robins has waged a prolific campaign of first ascents. Last week he added two grade 8’s to his already impressive tally of over a 100 new problems in the past two years alone.

16 January, 2017

South Africa trad climbing renaissance

Earlier this year Pete Robins visited South Africa as part of the BMC/Mountain Club of South Africa trad climbing exchange. Having spent the last five years mainly sport climbing and bouldering it was a trad renaissance for Pete. In this long-read he shares his experience of the exchange and perspective on UK and South African trad climbing.

09 August, 2016

Dawes' Coeur de Lion repeated 28 years later

James McHaffie and Pete Robins, have made the second ascent of the remarkable Coeur de Lion E8 7a on the Quarryman Wall, 28 years after it was established by Johnny Dawes.

10 April, 2015

Robins earns The Pink Star (8c+)

Pete Robins has opened his 'Diamond account' for this season in fine style; with the first ascent of The Pink Star (8c+). The route climbs probably the most obvious feature at the crag: a rising left-to-right crack through the arching steepness at the right hand-side of the cliff.

10 August, 2014

Ropes of Maui: new 8B in the Pass

Pete Robins has added a new Font 8B to the Llanberis Pass, only the second at that grade in the valley, by climbing the obvious start from a sit-down at the foot of the hanging rib leading into Stoned Temple Pilots (8A) and finishing as for that problem.

15 July, 2014

Esoteric 7c slate groove

Esoteric but accessible might be the best way to describe the location of a new 7c slate groove climbed by Pete Robins...

07 May, 2014

More new Orme routes from Robins

Pete Robins undoubtedly deserves a campaign medal of some sorts for his continued efforts in adding new routes to the Ormes. This time it's two top-quality routes, an 8a+ and an 8b, both involving some burly roof climbing.

20 March, 2014

Dark Energy first ascent 8c+

Pete Robins continues his campaign of hard new routes on north Wales limestone. His latest addition, Dark Energy 8c+, takes a spectacular line across the huge roof of Pigeon's Cave roof at its widest point. 

31 July, 2013

Pump up the Jam 8c

Pete Robins continues his long-standing affair with the Ormes, completing the Pigeon's Cave 'crack in the sky' project, to give Pump up the Jam 8c.

09 July, 2013

First ascent of Madame Allure 8B

Pete Robin's recently added a second top-quality 8B problem to the Ogwen Valley with his first ascent of Madame Allure. It takes the full-arete on the left edge of the Lily Savage block as a low-extension to what was originally climbed as Danny La Rue 7C+/8a.

18 April, 2013

Jewel in the crown for Robins' climbing year

Pete Robins was mightily relieved to be able to find the reserves of energy to complete his F8c+ project on the Little Orme as climbing conditions at the Diamond become increasingly unreliable with the approach of winter.

13 October, 2012

Isles of Wonder F.A. video

Video of Pete Robins' first ascent of Isles of Wonder, Font 8b, in the Ogwen Valley.

06 September, 2012

Ogwen Font 8B for Pete Robins

Pete Robins' perseverance paid off, when a brief easing of the rain let him snatch the first ascent of the Font 8b, Isles of Wonder, in the Ogwen Valley.

06 August, 2012

More new routes on slate

New routes and even whole areas continue to be opened up in the Dinorwig Quarries. Pete Robins has added a cool looking F8a+ arete, perched above the void of Australia and the Lloyd-Jones family have developed an attractive slab, with several routes on it, across the plateau from the Peppermint Tower. 

15 May, 2012

Robins completes LPT F8c+ trilogy

Having missed out on the first ascent of Megalopa F8c+ at the Great Orme, Pete Robins 'digs deep' and settles for second, completing the trilogy of F8c+ routes at Lower Pen Trwyn.

31 August, 2011

Orme projects fall to Robins

Pete Robins has been making the most of his Spring fitness with success on arguably the most visually compelling line in Parisella's Cave by linking Lou Ferrino into Bonnie giving a mega link-up reckoned to warrant V13/Font 8b. In Pigeon's Cave he has extended Stiff Upper Lip and Koo bumping their grades up to F8b and F7c respectively.

15 May, 2011