Knowledge

Coloured screwgate carabiners

11 January, 2014

Have you ever considered using 'colour-coded' screwgate carabiners to make it clearer who is attached where at a stance? In the video, mountaineering instructor and trainee British Mountain Guide, Rocio Siemens, demonstrates their practical use in a guiding scenario on Flying Buttress in the Llanberis Pass.

Slings at anchors

23 September, 2013

What amount of force is generated by a falling climber, attached to their anchor points using nylon or Dyneema® (Dynatec) slings, if there is slack in the system? Using your rope is the ideal option in terms of reducing the load on the anchors. 

Destination Frankenjura

10 January, 2013

The limestone crags of the Frankenjura are synonymous with world-class sport climbing. Wolfgang Gullich made it his home and it's where the term redpoint originated. The accompanying video gives a valuable insight for first-time visiting climbers.          

DMM factory tour

07 January, 2013

An insight into the craftsmanship and story behind the manufacture of DMM products at its Llanberis base in north Wales. See for yourself how throughout every stage of production, starting with the raw material, strict standards of quality control are maintained. Incredible precision even when hundreds of tonnes of force are being used and careful control of the critical variables involved many of the processes, such as heat treatment, are all part of the story.

Big wall tips from McHaffie and Muskett

12 November, 2012

After James McHaffie and Calum Muskett's recent Yosemite success, with free ascents on El Cap of the Pre-Muir and Golden Gate respectively, they share some of their hard won big wall wisdom.

Cure for a wet hold

01 October, 2012

An unlikely sounding tip for dealing with a wet or seeping hold. It also explains why Heiko Queitsch keeps a sheet of metallic foil, alongside his spare chalk and finger tape, in a Tupperware box.

Cold water therapy

14 September, 2012

We'd never heard of Kneipp Therapy before going to the Frankenjura although we knew lots of elite athletes use cold water treatments to aid recovery. German climber, Chris Igel, explained to us what it is all about.

Alex Schweikart's conditioning for climbing

13 August, 2012

Alex Schweikart shares her morning exercise routine and explains why she believes it helps reduce the risk of injuries. Most climbers would probably benefit from regular stretching and exercises to balance out the specific focus climbing places on certain muscle groups.

Anatomy of a carabiner

02 August, 2012

Non-locking carabiners are a fundamental part of any climbers rack, so you should take time to become familiar with the factors that affect performance before making your selection.

Behind the camera

11 June, 2012

Everyone is a photographer these days, so we thought we'd ask professional snapper, Ray Wood, who documented our recent Frankenjura trip in stills and video, to reflect on how we can get the most from our day to day photography.

Knotting Dyneema®?

27 March, 2012

A question we get asked at DMM is why is knotting Dyneema® (Dynatec) to make your own slings strongly not recommended. It may be possible to achieve quite high breaking strengths using specific knots but that is only part of the picture.

Improvisation - Lark's Foot or Basket Hitch?

28 December, 2011

If you are improvising to avoid cross-loading a carabiner over an edge is it better to use a lark's foot or a basket hitch?

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