Journal

How Many Roads…

How Many Roads…

Ben Bransby has added a difficult new route to the quarried gritstone crag of Millstone—a popular Peak District venue where you wouldn't imagine there'd be any gaps left to fill-in.

Kyra's Olympic Goal

Kyra's Olympic Goal

Kyra Condie’s introduction to climbing was through a birthday party held at a climbing wall, aged 11. However, not long after this in 2010 she underwent spinal fusion surgery to correct a 70° ’S’ curve in her back.

First British Female 9a

First British Female 9a

Emma Twyford has become the first British female to have attained the magic 9a grade with her successful redpoint of The Big Bang on the evening of September 17th 2019.

RIP Jess Roskelley: world-class alpinist 1982–2019

RIP Jess Roskelley: world-class alpinist 1982–2019

On April 21st the bodies of Jess Roskelley, 36, David Lama, 28, and Hansjörg Auer, 35, were recovered from an avalanche field on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockies.

Blood Moon

Blood Moon

Jamming my body as deep as possible into the chimney, I furiously scrabbled to get the slightest push through my feet. I was five ‘long’ metres above my last bolt placement and my muscles were slowly fatiguing.

1 AU

1 AU

In 1998 Paul Pritchard suffered terrible head injuries when he was hit by a TV-sized block on The Totem Pole sea stack in Tasmania. His slow recovery left him without the use of his right arm and only limited movement in his right leg.

DMM and Glenmore Lodge partnership

DMM and Glenmore Lodge partnership

Glenmore Lodge and DMM are pleased to announce a new partnership. This brings together Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre and DMM’s climbing equipment manufacturing expertise.

DMM acquires Stal Climbing

DMM acquires Stal Climbing

DMM will be taking ownership of the Stal Climbing brand. Looking ahead, Stal premium climbing wall anchors will be manufactured by DMM in Llanberis under its ISO 9001:2015 quality system and integrated into the DMM product range.

In the Red

In the Red

Exiting Lexington Airport from the UK we were greeted by clinging humidity and the white noise of cicadas. The ‘Bluegrass State’ of Kentucky felt more exotic than expected.

Trauma E8/9 7a

Trauma E8/9 7a

For Angus Kille, his ascent of Trauma is the realisation of an ambition that began with a formative climbing experience on that same crag. Angus takes up the story.

Climb every route at Stanage

Climb every route at Stanage

Ben Bransby has set himself the task of being the first person to climb every route on arguably the UK’s most popular crag - Stanage - the 'queen of gritstone'.

Monte Lico’s rainforest ‘lost world’

Monte Lico’s rainforest ‘lost world’

It’s not every day that a professor calls you up and asks if you can set-up some ropes on an ‘unclimbed’ mountain in Mozambique.

Moonrise Kingdom (E9 6b, 6c, 6a/b) rises up

Moonrise Kingdom (E9 6b, 6c, 6a/b) rises up

James McHaffie and Dan Varian have climbed a major new multi-pitch route on Skye’s Coir’-Uisg Buttress. Moonrise Kingdom (E9 6b, 6c, 6a/b) turned out to be a much stiffer proposition than the pair had envisaged.

Controlled Burning on Lundy Island

Controlled Burning on Lundy Island

James McHaffie took full advantage of an exceptional spell of good weather on Lundy Island to add two new E7s and finish-off the last of his remaining Lundy 'Extreme Rock routes'.

First ascents in the Val Ferrera

First ascents in the Val Ferrera

In February, Alex Luger and Hanno Schluge, climbed two new winter routes in Switzerland's Val Ferrera.

Sport climbing in Thakhek, Laos

Sport climbing in Thakhek, Laos

Previously Angus Kille had sent us a dispatch from Yangshuo but unusually chilly and damp weather meant it wasn’t long before he was heading to Laos.

James McHaffie's Nightmare Inauguration (E8 6b)

James McHaffie's Nightmare Inauguration (E8 6b)

Having spent the past month sport climbing in Spain, James McHaffie has wasted no time in switching to adventurous trad mode, with the first ascent of Nightmare Inauguration (E8 6b)

North Wales bouldering blitz by Robins

North Wales bouldering blitz by Robins

Pete Robins has spent the past twelve months or so purely focused on difficult new boulder problems; including plenty of committing highballs.

Climbing in Yangshuo, China

Climbing in Yangshuo, China

Angus Kille (pronounced with a silent 'e') is currently taking a couple of months out from life in north Wales to climb in South East Asia.

São Tomé big wall climb

São Tomé big wall climb

Gareth 'Gaz' Leah and Mexican big wall veteran Sergio 'Tiny' Almada have recently returned from a big wall adventure on the remote African island of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The Great Escape (E8) Onsight

The Great Escape (E8) Onsight

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill's first route on the Isle of Arran is one they'll be sure to remember, with an impressive onsight ascent of The Great Escape (E8 6b, 6c, 6b).

Pritchard 'knocks-off' the Totem Pole

Pritchard 'knocks-off' the Totem Pole

Eighteen years after a rock smashed into Paul Pritchard's skull, leaving him partially paralysed, and with expressive aphasia, he has returned to the scene of the accident in Tasmania and climbed the Totem Pole, closing a chapter on his life.

Helping Mexico's youth climb beyond drug cartels and gangs

Helping Mexico's youth climb beyond drug cartels and gangs

Tiffany Hensley and Gareth Leah are ambassadors for Escalando Fronteras (Climbing Borders), an initiative aimed at helping at-risk youth reach for a better future, and are six weeks into a four month stay in Mexico.

The world's first 9a onsight

The world's first 9a onsight

Alex Megos' ascent of Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain is widely accepted as the world's first 9a onsight.

×