While Ethan is perhaps a sport climber at heart, his extensive bouldering ticklist catalogues ascents of numerous double-digit V-grade problems, including several 8C (V15) and 8B+ (V14) boulders, such as the third ascent of the mega 60-foot roof problem, The Wheel of Life (V15/8C) in the Grampians; the fifth ascents of The Nest (V15/8C) and Kintsugi (V15/8C) at Red Rocks; and Slashface (V14/8B+) and Sky (V14) in Rocklands. He also has a list of impressive highballs and rated boulders to his name, including the notoriously heady 7C+ Too Big to Flail (V10/5.14a X), The Beautiful and Damned (V13/8A+ X) and This Side of Paradise (V10/7C+ R/X), all in the Buttermilks; the first ascents of Wet Dream (V12/13, 8A+/8B R) and Clockwork Orange (V12/8A+ R) at Red Rocks; Evangalion (V13/8B R) at Hueco Tanks and Birds Nest (V11/8A R) in Lower Cottonwood Canyon.
Next, we can move onto trad climbing. Since his early 20s Ethan has shown excellent form on high-end trad climbs. In 2008, during a trip to Canada, he sent Sonnie Trotter’s famous routes The Path (5.14-/8b+/c R) at Lake Louise, and made the third ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) in Squamish. Colorado trad testpieces China Doll (5.14a/8b+) and Iron Monkey (5.14a/8b+) are other impressive single-pitch achievements by Ethan, as is the first free ascent of Blackbeard's Tears (5.14c/8c) in California.
If this wasn’t enough, Ethan has also succeeded on multipitch and big wall climbs, including a flash ascent of Moonlight Buttress (5.12/7b+, 10 pitches) in Zion, and an exceptionally good flash attempt of the 35-pitch Freerider (5.13a/7c+) on El Capitan, when, in a 36-hour push, Ethan flashed every pitch except the Huber Boulder Problem, where a quick slip had him pulling the rope and ticking the pitch second go.
Back in 2013, during a 40-day expedition to Greenland, Ethan went without sleep for three days to establish a 1000-metre first ascent on an unclimbed granite peak on southeast coast with Mike Libecki [check out the video]. Ethan onsighted uncharted pitches of 5.13 (7c+/8a) trad, likely some of the hardest technical climbing in the country, and again proving himself to be one of the strongest all-around climbers of his generation.
In terms of future ambitions, Ethan’s plans are broad: learning Spanish and a musical instrument, returning to Greenland and El Cap, and climbing another V15 and 5.15, are but some of the goals on his list. In between these he’ll continue with his hobbies of surfing, reading, writing and meditation.