02/07/2010Moel Y Gest Quarry Sport Routes

A number of sport routes have been established by Terry Taylor and Martin Crook in Moel Y Gest Quarry near Porthmadog. The quarry is high up on the northern flank of the hill opposite Craig y Castell. The quarry can divided into three large bays and is described from left to right as you approach them. The Holliwell brother routes from the late-60's in the first bay are recorded in the current Tremadog guidebook but have had few (if any) ascents. If you look at the terrain they cross you'll understand why. In many cases they have changed beyond recognition owing to rockfall.

Terry and Martin's new routes make the most of the solid areas of quarried dolerite found in the bays, although the Planet Gest Slabs at the far right-hand end appear to have escaped being quarried and have a natural feel to them. Last spring Dave Noden was largely responsible for developing the boulders (DMM News) below these slabs.

The first of the new routes you come to is on a compact small buttress towards the right side of the first bay, Dr Faustus F7a, with its crux at the top. In the next bay and behind the obvious landmark of an old winding house you'll find three routes: The Kiss of the Yogini F6C+, Fat Groove Slim F6b and up the wall a bit further right, Tantric Skull Feeder 6c+/7a - which is probably worth a couple of stars. To the right of this is a fantastic looking bolted project.

On the left-side of the third bay is a slabby area with Intersex Olympics 6c up the left arete, Flaskdance 6a+ and Necroscopic Invaders 6a, that starts for Flaskdance and takes a groove on the right. The routes on the easy angled 15 - 20 metre slabs set into the hillside on the far side of this bay are on good rock with excellent friction, which is just as well given the size of some of the holds.

The first route here was Planet Gest F6a by Martin, a good climb up a groove right of the corner, then following a crack-line and ramp to a lower-off. Either side of this are slabby offerings from F6a - F6c. Die by the Sword shares its start with Live by the Sword but stays on the right edge of the slab. The Planet Gest slabs (download topo) get the sun in the summer until about 2.15 p.m. while the Flaskdance area gets the afternoon warmth.

Approach: Park just past the garage in a lay-by on your right travelling along the Criccieth to Porthmadog Road (A487). A footpath sign points the way into the woods and steeply up the hillside.

About three hundred yards after exiting the woods you'll see an indistinct path on your right just by a small birch tree and opposite a flat-topped rock. This will lead you through bracken to the edge of the first bay where you can descend with care to the quarry floor. There are seasonal restrictions owing to nesting birds - check here at the BMC - climbing and bouldering in the western bay is restricted between March 1st - June 15th.

Photos (All © Ray Wood):

top: Topo to Planet Gest Area, Moel y Gest Quarry.

middle: Terry Taylor on his Die by the Sword F6b, Moel Y Gest Quarry.

lower: Terry Taylor high on Tantric Skull Feeder, F6c+/7a.